Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.
First off, you must obtain:
[1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
[2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
[3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
chemicals)
[4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery
hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again
and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You
should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.
Picking Master Locks
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now
have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove,
pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the
next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
The older models are from 1988-1990. The newer models are being
cracked on as I speak..
The Arts of Lockpicking
So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood,
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even
experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get
him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you
to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver
comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the
coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now,
if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.
High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox
-------------Introduction-------------
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at
least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching
unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build
one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color
of ours.
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.
---------Construction and Use---------
The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of
the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green,
yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter:
the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not neccessary
for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and
the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There
should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black)
leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red aligator clip.
To the end of the green wire attatch a green aligator clip. The yellow
and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so
that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your
telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular
model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses
common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight,
and does not require the destruction of a phone.
------------Beige Box Uses------------
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it,
you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be
of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e.
remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell
Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver
(or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also).
This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store.
With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately
1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked,
then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks.
However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have
opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to
terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T"
(Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if
not labeled, usually on the right).
Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to
remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip
(Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal.
Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal.
Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator
clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure
they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone.
Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use
your own). Here are some practicle aplications:
> Eavesdropping
> Long distance, static free free fone calls to phriends
> Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)
> Phucking people over
> Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself
> Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught
> Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line.
Eavesdropping
-------------
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This
eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore
reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping,
it is allways best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone
dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the
receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete
their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you
will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who
you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number.
Dialing Long Distance
---------------------
This section is self explanitory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before
the NPA.
Dialing Direct to Aliance Teleconferencing
------------------------------------------
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there.
I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception
and are more dificult to come by.
Phucking People Over
--------------------
This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics
described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will
not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition,
since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your
phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls.
This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause
of the problem.
Bothering the Operator
----------------------
This is also self explanitary and can provide hours of entertainment.
Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced
to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section,
Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?
He he he...
Blue Boxing
-----------
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice
feature if you live in an ESS-equiped prefix, since the calls are, once
again, not traced to your line...
---POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING----
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicians within the Gestapo,
and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recomend you:
> Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,
> Use more than one output device
> Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real
name on a public BBS concering your occomplishments)
> In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output
device, I recomend you place a piece of transparent tape over
the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is
opened in your abscence, the tapqe will be displaced and
you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded
on your teritory.
How to make a CO2 bomb
You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it
or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the
powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black
powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the
cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse.
I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse,
but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs
from the cops after killing a white girl.) Now, light it and run
like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones
in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a
picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right
under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws
shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!!
Touch Explosives
This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in
large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a
snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:
- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia
and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!).
- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh?
They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to
them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds,
football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun!
Letter Bombs
- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.
- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space
(such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...
- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers
and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is
your bomb!!
- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain.
Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The
fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long
cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch
explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn
the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at
least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
flesh!).
Paint Bombs
To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a
refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple,
or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!!
Ways to Explode a car
There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only
the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive
(for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops).
- Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the
way through the pavement!
- Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler,
etc.)
- Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this one is good!), a ping pong ball,
or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.
Plastic deforms and dilutes into gas. The final result is much
harder to inject into the engine, possibly causing valve replacement.
- Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into
the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the
tailpipe.
- Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...
- Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.
- Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like
this:
ÚÄÄ¿
³ ³
³ ³
³ ³
³ ³
³ ÚÙ
³ À¿
ÀÄÄÙ
Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until
you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device
is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar
detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders
on the seats!)
Phone related vandalism
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be
able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is
go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces
their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the
major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are
usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench
and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a
sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their
phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but
must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
Another place to phuck with lines is in new developments. When
houses/apartments/condos are still in the plywood and dirt stage,
the lines are run into junxion boxes. When the crew goes home for
the day, plan your attack. Just destroy the shit out of the box,
then replace the cover. Watch em' go nuts as they try to figure
out where the line broke in the walls.
Highway radar jamming
Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this
device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of
the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in
Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
triggering their radar detectors!
Smoke Bombs
Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb!
4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)
Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well.
Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a
few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this
stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke!
Mail Box Bombs
Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
Small amount of sugar
Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this,
though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person
whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
The easiest way to hotwire cars
Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it
unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the
ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two
red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look
for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take
off!
How to make a fertilizer bomb
Ingredients:
- Newspaper
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
so don't do it in an alley!!
Tennis Ball Bombs
Ingredients:
- Strike anywhere matches
- A tennis ball
- A nice sharp knife
- Duct tape
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis
ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't
fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is
real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the
street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
Diskette Bombs
You need:
- A disk
- Scissors
- White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
- Clear nail polish
- Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!)
- Remove the cotton covering from the inside.
- Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper,
metal might spark the matchpowder!)
- After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.
- Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture
- Let it dry
- Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish
to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).
- When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read
the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK
DRIVE AND INJURE THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha!
Fuses
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what
falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just
have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some
parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so
this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented
here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.
SLOW BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
- Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
- Granulated sugar
Procedure:
- Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then
rinse with fresh water
- Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water
- Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
- Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
- Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!
FAST BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
-Soft cotton string
-fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
-shallow dish or pan
Procedure:
- moisten powder to form a paste
- twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together
- rub paste into string and allow to dry
- Check the burn rate!!!
How to make Potassium Nitrate
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other
things. Here is how you make it:
Materials needed:
-3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
-1/2 cup of wood ashes
-Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
-2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the
bottom of the bucket
-Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
-Shallow, heat resistant container
-2 gallons of water
-Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
-1 gallon of any type of alcohol
-A heat source
-Paper & tape
Procedure:
- Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the
metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom
- Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom
- Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers
the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.
- Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes
- Place the dirt or other material in the bucket
- Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need
support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not
blocked.
- Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour
it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.
- Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the
bottom.
- Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
- Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so
- Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the
sludge in the bottom
- Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small
grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they
form
- When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let
it sit
- After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this
mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This
is the posassium nitrate.
Purification:
- Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water
- Remove any crystals that appear
- Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution
to dryness.
- Spread out crystals and allow to dry
LIGHTBULB BOMBS
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead
light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down
to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive
material, such as black powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base,
it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the
bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the
bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a
working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into
the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much
success, since few people would search the room for a bomb without first
turning on the light.
Under water igniters
Materials needed:
-Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will
know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass
objects!)
-Pack of matches
-1 candle
Procedure:
- Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the
top.
- Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode
against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that
one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side.
Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The
diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT
TOUCH EACH OTHER!
- Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These
work underwater
- repeat to make as many as you want
How to use them:
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode
reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical
components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts
of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This
heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for
use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work.
Home-brew blast cannon
Materials needed:
-1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in
diameter
-1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in
diameter
-1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
-1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small
pipe
-5 feet of bellwire
-1 SPST rocker switch
-16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
-15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
-Electrical Tape
-One free afternoon
Procedure:
- Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends
- Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as
the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe.
they should screw together easily.
- Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape,
then attach it to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/------
!lighter!!<---metal lever
!!!
!!
Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from
the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your
lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
- Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch
- Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the
switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top.
Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out
of the top.
- Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should
rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out
gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the
trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes
well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
- Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.
1---------------
v/
2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
3 the relay
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5
Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect
(2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect
the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the
battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little
'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some
tiny little sparks.
- Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to
the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
- You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
set it off by flipping the switch.
- Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY.
You are now ready for the first trial-run!
To Test:
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it
fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will
probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a
shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing
. Hold the
trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch.
With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a
frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.
How to find Elements
Chemical Equivalency list
Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic
Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum
Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum
Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia
Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter
Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap
Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil
Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash
Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid
Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime
Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt
Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil
Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup
Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead
Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide
Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead
Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead
Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc
Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt
Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil
Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs
Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter
Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum
Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter
Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda
Sodium Borate................................................Borax
Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt
Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye
Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass
Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo
Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid
Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid
Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol
How to make a landmine
First, you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it
and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to
a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin
piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are
desperate, but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of
the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire
from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.
switch-----------battery
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
solar igniter
|
|
|
explosive
Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO2 bomb, etc.) to the
igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch
tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the
materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from
and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not TOO
visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch
because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its
burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close
enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM!
A different kind of Explosive Cocktail
Here is how you do it:
- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full
- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.
- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
Hindenberg Bomb
Needed:1 Balloon
1 Bottle
1 Liquid Plumr
1 Piece Aluminum FoilL
1 Length Fuse
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumr and add a little piece of
aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until
the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable
hydrogen.
Now tie the baloon. Now light the fuse, and let it rise.
When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!!
Calcium Carbide Bomb
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some
calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and
can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this
stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some
water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to
produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in
cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal
pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
fireball!
Harmless Bombs
To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on their victims
but only terror.
These are weapons that should be used from high places.
1) The flour bomb.
Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking flour in
the center. Then wrap it up and put on a rubber band to keep it
together. When thrown it will fly well but when it hits, it covers
the victim with the flower or causes a big puff of flour which will
put the victim in terror since as far as they are concerned, some
strange white powder is all over them. This is a cheap method of
terror and for only the cost of a roll of paper towels and a bag of
flour you and your friends can have loads of fun watching people
flee in panic.
2) Smoke bomb projectile.
All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs and a
wrist rocket or any sling-shot. Shoot the smoke bombs and watch the
terror since they think it will blow up!
3) Rotten eggs (good ones)
Take some eggs and get a sharp needle
and poke a small hole in the top of each one.
Then let them sit in a warm place for about a week. Then you've got a
bunch of rotten eggs that will only smell when they hit.
4) Glow in the dark terror.
Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour the
stuff on whatever you want to throw and when it gets on the victim,
they think it's some deadly chemical or a radioactive substance so
they run in total panic. This works especially well with flower
bombs since a gummy, glowing substance gets all over the victim.
5) Fizzling panic.
Take a baggie of a water-baking soda solution and seal it. (Make
sure there is no air in it since the solution will form a gas and
you don't want it to pop on you.) Then put it in a bigger plastic
bag and fill it with vinegar and seal it. When thrown, the two
substances will mix and cause a violently bubbling substance to go
all over the victim.
More Ways to Send a Car to Hell
How to have fun with someone else's car. If you really hate
someone, here's a few tips on what to do in your
spare time. Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue
tacks. The tacks make lovely designs. If your "friend" goes to
school with you, Just before he comes out of school. Light a lighter
and then put it directly underneath his car door handle.
Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he
made it to his car in time. Remove his muffler and pour approximately
1 Cup of gas in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts.
Then you have a cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter.
This one is effective, and any fool can do it. Remove the top
air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank.
Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe. Then you wonder why
your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that takes
time and many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house
and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If you're
into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it.
They wonder why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but
the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard.
Electronic Terrorism
It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a
rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a
(direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile
inwardly---your revenge is already planned.
Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you
have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more,
letting your anger boil.
Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
kit(details below.)
Step 3: plant your kit at the designated target site on a monday
morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a
calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility
of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of
an effective note:
"don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your
hand. Have a nice day."
Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a
homicidal psychopath.
Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try
to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions.
Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile,
economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are:
1) 4 aa batteries
2) 1 9-volt battery
3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-volt battery connector
Step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil.
This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when
separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together
by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door.
Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit
is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed postion
thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a
look at the schematic below.)
Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.
Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another,
until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative
terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6
volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar
ignitor quickly and effectively.
Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it
to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar
ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open
position on the relay.
Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker,
mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the
rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).
Your kit is now complete!
---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITOR) done...
How to Make Dynamite
Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stablizing
agent to make it much safer to use. For the sake of saving time, I
will abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain NG. The numbers
are percentages, be sure to mix these carefully and be sure to use the
exact amounts. These percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.
no. ingredients amount
---------------------------------------
#1 NG 32
sodium nitrate 28
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotten 1
#2 NG 24
potassium nitrate 9
sodium nitate 56
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 2
#3 NG 35.5
potassium nitrate 44.5
woodmeal 6
guncotton 2.5
vaseline 5.5
powdered charcoal 6
#4 NG 25
potassium nitrate 26
woodmeal 34
barium nitrate 5
starch 10
#5 NG 57
potassium nitrate 19
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 12
guncotton 3
#6 NG 18
sodium nitrate 70
woodmeal 5.5
potassium chloride 4.5
chalk 2
#7 NG 26
woodmeal 40
barium nitrate 32
sodium carbonate 2
#8 NG 44
woodmeal 12
anhydrous sodium sulfate 44
#9 NG 24
potassium nitrate 32.5
woodmeal 33.5
ammonium oxalate 10
#10 NG 26
potassium nitrate 33
woodmeal 41
#11 NG 15
sodium nitrate 62.9
woodmeal 21.2
sodium carbonate .9
#12 NG 35
sodium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 1
#13 NG 32
potassium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 30
guncotton 1
#14 NG 33
woodmeal 10.3
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotton .7
potassium perchloride 27
#15 NG 40
sodium nitrate 45
woodmeal 15
#16 NG 47
starch 50
guncotton 3
#17 NG 30
sodium nitrate 22.3
woodmeal 40.5
potassium chloride 7.2
#18 NG 50
sodium nitrate 32.6
woodmeal 17
ammonium oxalate .4
#19 NG 23
potassium nitrate 27.5
woodmeal 37
ammonium oxalate 8
barium nitrate 4
calcium carbonate .5
Household equivalants for chemicles
It has come to my attention that many of these chemicles are
sold under brand names, or have household equivalants. here is a list
that might help you out. Also, see elsewhere in this Cookbook for
a more complete listing............
acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
carbon carbonate chalk
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulfate plaster of paris
carbonic acid seltzer
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
ethylene dichloride Dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
glucose corn syrup
graphite pencil lead
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide red lead
magnesium silicate talc
magnesium sulfate Epsom salts
naphthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulf. chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
sodium dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium chloride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium silicate water glass
sodium sulfate glauber's salt
sodium thiosulfate photographer's hypo
sulferic acid battery acid
sucrose cane sugar
zinc chloride tinner's fluid
Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to get one
or more of the ingredients try another one. If you still can't, you
can always buy small amounts from your school, or maybe from various
chemical companies. When you do that, be sure to say as little as
possible, if during the school year, and they ask, say it's for a
experiment for school.
Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a
switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of
the tailpipeby drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.
Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the
switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached
to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply
hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no
one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!!
Firebombs
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel
soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original
Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part
gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it
splatters on.
Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs
have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
use Ignition Bomb
A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury.
It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can.
The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use
this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has
burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks,
the burning fuse will ignite the contents.
Generic Bomb
1) Aquire a glass container
2) Put in a few drops of gasoline
3) Cap the top
4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then
evaporates
5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this stuff from a
snake bite kit)
6) The bomb is detonated by throwing aganist a solid object.
*AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS ABOUT 1/2
STICK OF DYNAMITE*
